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Minggu, 03 Oktober 2010

Identifying all my crankcases?

I recently acquired Dale Tholen's "Thundermug" H modified racecar and a boatload of spares. I have 8 crankcases, 7 blocks and three cranks, one of which I know is a "good" steel one - it rings like a bell. Problem - how do I tell if any of my crankcases are the good "strapped/military" versions? I have two sets of main bearing caps (not installed onto any of the crancases, however) that either have been machined flat to match the steel caps or are factory-produced flat versions - I don't know which. Three of the crankcases have the "extra" rear oil seal boss molded into the end and one of them has a very thick front crank seal area. Three of them have huge oil passage holes for the main bearings, all of which appear to be factory. All the webs look to be the same thicknesses. Some of the oil galleries have either been drilled or are factory-drilled. Are there any specific characteristics that I can look for that will identify the "good" crankcases?

I am delighted to hear that the Thunder Mug is in good hands. I will not attempt to identify the crankcases but will leave that to an expert such as Barry Seele. I will add from personal experience that you MUST get the crankcase line bored with the main caps in the places that they will actually be installed. My experience has been that Crosley crankcases are often quite out of whack which causes all manner of problems. Another thing to check is the bottom flange of the lock. A light cut on a milling machine will ensure that it is really flat. You might also check to see if the block has been milled previously as this can affect the compression especially if you are going to use special pistons which is a very good idea. Look carefully for cracks between the intake and exhaust valve seats.

If the main caps are not on, then the cases are all but junk. I have not found anybody that has a line boring machine that goes small enough for the Crosley. I have plenty of military cases, and a few heavy Fageol cases.

There is a guy near Redding CA that line bores Crosley cases on a regular basis. I will get his address and post it as soon as I can. You quoted me $2850 using my crank and crankcase. How much would using one of your crankcases add to the price? I have a camshaft that's got pretty tall and sharp lobes, it might be able to be used. What about using the Aerojet block? Is the Fageol better and bigger? What HP will the Fageol be

making if you build it for power AND longevity?

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