Leaking fuel Palio GTX ... problems still continue

The car is a 2002 Palio Sport 1.6L, So after 3 months i finally got the car back from the TASS in mangalore, and bill for 16,000rs. They said they had replaced the gear box and the clutch as well. When i saw the clutch i was so furious as it did not need changing as would be great for another 10-15,000kms. But either way i was happy to have my car back after so long. 

One week later the car stops starting. As i turn the key i hear a single click noise and the engine does not turn over. Starter problem. Also the tube that runs under the bonnet to the windshield fluid nozzle was broken so the driver side nozzle would not spray out and water. I take the car to a local mechanic and get a bill of 2400rs for starter rebuild and parts costs. WOW. Nozzle could not be repaired as the parts were not available

So now i go to fill petrol in the car and right when the fuel gets to the top it starts leaking from underneath. Leaking as in probably a good 2 or 3 liters, alot of fuel. Even now the petrol level is a little under half, i notice some leaking from under the car. 

Anyone experienced this problem before? Solutions? Also, anyone know a good mechanic in udupi/mangalore area that i can take the car to? As i dont trust the TASS anymore. Please help me out and let me know. 

Same problem of fuel leaking -- when full tank is happening with me. I have diagnosed it to be from the breather/overflow pipe and the leak area is at the joint where the 'metal pipe from petrol tank' connects to the breather pipe. There is a small rubber part/bush (with a collar) that has cracked (with time/ rubber has cracked) and that is what is causing the leak.

Now finding that is a bit difficult and hence did local arrangement of putting some other rubber as a bush to hold the pipe. The leakage has reduced by 95%.

Will take it to TASS/Service station to get it fully rectified.

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Mercedes V-6 diesel in Ford Van

Could someone say a little bit more about installing the Mercedes V6 diesel in the Ford vans? I have a 6.0l diesel in my 2006 E350, and I'm very unhappy with it. I'm especially interested in cost, fuel mileage, and the actual process.

All I know is that the previously mentioned install was difficult because the owner of the vehicle got only the engine and related electrical components. But he was originally told to get the entire donor vehicle because, apparently, there are computers and sensors throughout the engine/electrical/fuel (and God knows what else) systems that are integral and interdependent for proper function of the whole system. Have a big checkbook ready.

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M151 dilemma

I have a dilemma, I have an M151 (A0). The rear end had been torched to the point that I need to fit a total new rear end. (I just created an album called "John TX"). I can get a partial (ex factory) rear end but it is for the M151 A2. My question is whether this is a no-no. I want to restore it to "deployment" status and not factory condition. So the question is would a repair facility in the military have done this retrofit. I am hoping not to modify the A2 rear to match (A0/A1). 

Well I would say there is no text book answer. If you want to make it deployment ready and not year and model correct I would say it would not be unusual that you would find mixed parts like that. When I did my A1 a while ago I used some A2 parts cause they were what I wanted. I did the A1 stuff as well so it was a simple matter of parts change. But the wiring harness I used an A2 harness. When you go to war you use what you have so that would be normal to have subsitutions like that.

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engine identification

I have an extra engine that came with my 1951 super wagon it has a serial # of 115003, does any one know what is out of. the engine in the car which runs good has a serial # of onl 5 digits, (first two are 39---) I have been told that it is out of a 47. I am just starting to restore it all and want to find what is correct and what is not.

It started life as a CoBra sheet metal block engine. I assume it has been upgraded to cast iron block, most have. Most of the difference between the 48 engine and the 51 is internal, assuming it has not been at least been partially updated. The 51 had a better crankcase, crank, seals, bigger clutch, etc.

The info I gave was for the installed engine # 39XXX. 115003 is probably the origina engine for your 51 wagon.

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NEED AN INDEPENDANT VALUE JUDGEMENT

I have a small problem and I am trying to decide what to do. During the great October snowstorm on Saturday, I lost a large branch off my maple tree and it fell on 2 of my parts cars. One was a 52 wagon and the other a 49 wagon. It has crushed the roofs of both of them and broken most of the glass. The cars were not restoration projects, just parts but both had good straight roofs and glass that was good for patterns. I am trying to decide if I should make an insurance claim on them or just forget about it. What kind of value would you place on these? 

Even a parts car, especially if it was complete as yours mostly are, or were should be worth at least $500.00 ea I would think. I guess it sort of depends what your insurance deductible is...

I had a rusty parts car that was hit while parked at my place of business. It caved the drivers side door in and broke the already ruined glass in the door and the stainless was bent at the window line. It had roll up windows and the bottoms of the doors were rusted off. The engine and trans and many other pieces were already stripped. Of course the other guys insurance came out and didn't want to give me anything for the claim as he said it was a rust piece of junk. I told him it was my lawn art and I wanted it repaired to the pre-accident condition. After a few phone calls and several pictures to his boss it was desided that $200. would be a fair claim. I was more than happy with the amount as I was actually selling the car and wanted $250.00 for the car.

My suggestion would be to turn it in and see what they will give you. Remember, they don't make Crosleys any more so you can't go to the dealer and get new roofs or windows. What would it cost labor wise to repair the items damaged to pre-accident condition???

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how to Build 3WD

I am building my second 1F2R three wheeler and I want it to be all things to all people. But I live on a very steep hill with a 1/4 mi driveway. In the winter you need a good 4x4. So 3 wheel drive on a 3-wheeler may work. I have come up with 2 plans :

1- hub motor

2- starter motor rubbing on the outside of the tire or geared like on the brake rotor outside

So either way the HP and duration would be very low. Mostly for snow and only when you cant go in 2wd ,like 2 mi max. 5 min? All "I" need is to run it the 1/4 mi up my driveway. So any Ideas on the electric front? 12V? Or like KERS on F-1 race cars

I didn`t love the friction drive in the snow idea, but it was simple. If made tight enough to the tire it might work. If I used a car starter motor I think I would try to use the Bendix of the starter to some how engage the drive,so it would only turn when you need it. Although, with the one way clutch it solves the problem of engagement of the gears at speed. 10 MPH. A good thought. 

I was afraid the hub motors wouldn`t work well because of the slow speed heat build-up.

The price of the components are a tad high too. What would it take to make a controller for a 12V starter using a 12V battery? I have lots of used starters around here and winter is coming. My trike weighs 1200lbs with With me in it there is 400lbs on the front wheel (1F2R). It is powered by a 72 hp Subaru 3 cyl with 5 speed transmission driving the rear wheels.

See this pic :

The trike works well. I don`t want to redesign it. I want something that, like snow tires, you put on in the winter take off in the summer. Or more likely something you put on when you need it. It could be 20+ lbs of unsprung weight bouncing along. Oh and under $100 would be nice.

I would think that there won't be much weight on the front wheel, and wouldn't provide much traction anyway.

Can you have a limited slip or locking differential? Depending on how often it snows, it may be better to just use tire chains or aggessive tires.

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Sell ​​old car to buy a new one

I own a 2004 Palio 1.2 Nv sports in Bangalore. Recently I headed to KHT motors (Tata Fiat Dealership) to look at the Punto 90 hp. I was very impressed by the car. Rock solid and a lot of fun post 2000 Rev mark. As there is some exchange bonus being offered at Fiat to the tune of 15 k. I asked the old car evaluator to take a look at my Palio. 

The number he quoted horrified me. 80 k including the exchange bonus!

This is for a car that is running 5 new tires, a brand new Battery and in pretty much top shape. 

This got me thinking is buying another Fiat really worth it? Pity considering that the 90 hp really is a good car.

You will always get pathetic resale value from the dealer if you try to sale it to them .What they will do is sale it at open market at a higher price -hence they make 2 fold profit one on your old car and also on the new car. Try selling the car outside of the Dealer you will get a better price .

Guess what, this is the fate of almost all who approached dealers for an exchange. 

I am sure that your valuation was actually done by a third party dealer and not actually KHT. The dealers usually outsource this part of the business especially dealing with seconds, etc.. I feel it's because of these dealers, that valuation, in general, drops down. 

You should try posting it on Carwale, m sure it'll fetch a good price:-) I too had visited concorde mtrs @ dairy circle to enquire abt the exchange offer. Dealer quotes - 1,80,000 for 2007dec, 23Km run car. The car is out n out serviced by concorde motors only. So decided not to part with my car. Just thought I would add that this phenomenon is not unique to Fiat. Look at the resale value of old cars of similar vintage from other marquees. Look at what Zens & Esteems are fetching. See what the old Accents command in the market. 

The resale value for a fiat is bad, but definately not that bad. I bought the same 2004 Palio 1.2 NV Sports (60k) last year for 1.70 lakhs. You should be able to get around 1.5 lakhs atleast depending on the condition of your car.

This is because of the lack of service stations and spare availability as not every road side mechanic is capable enough to tackle the fault aroused.

Actually used cars in Bangalore (read KA regn cars) command a higher value than the rest of the country. Mainly due to the higher road tax and also due to the lower humidity leading to minimal rust formation. Again for Palios  service options are one of the best compared to other cities, be it TASS or others.

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1989 Dodge Ram Van - As start for 4x4 conversion?

Hi guys need some quick advice, I have a chance to buy a 89 ram van cheap. I would be buying with intent to convert to 4x4. Would also like to possibly engine swap to a disel engine at some point. Anyone out there have experiance with this van, or knowledge that would help me decide before purchase would be appreciated. I have done a lot of research but its all been chevy based, so have no idea the conversion ease for the dodge.

I started a 90 conversion years ago, had Dyna Track build a Dodge Dana 60front and rears, both with ARB air lockers. Never got the front axle in before heart transplant, so had to give up on it,, dratzz. The Dodge overdrive tranny, turned out to be a pc of junk, and when it died, had A1Racing transmissions build be a 727, with all the whistles and bells to also,, include, buying the extra low planetaries 1st and 2nd gear. In order to "fool" the engine code, as it didnt have the real fuel injection, I took the relays out of the 518 and used them to tell the computer(ha,ha) it had locked up in gear. Worked perfectly. I first tried to use the divorced 205 as it was easy to find, but no matter what I did to the mid shaft, I could not get the unbalance out, as it had to be too short. S0,, dumped that and found a married 205, which was pricey, but solved all the problems.

I was building the truck to leave for Alaska, and went overboard on everything as I wanted as few as problems as I could set myself up for,,, I figured the two main expenses would be food and gas, so also, put a Gear Vendors on the back of the 205. I made all the special mounts in order to put it into the Van, and it worked really good, never got to installing the front 60.
 

IF I where to do it all over again,, I would have used the Chevy front 60, as it has larger spline front axles, and the locking hubs are easy to get. The Dodge front 60 was a full time unit, and the only front hubs I could get where the less strong Mile Marker hubs. The pumpkin is on the same side as the Dodge and both 8 lug anyways.
 

Also, I found the rear Dodge 60 not as strong as the Chevy 18 bolt, and should have used it, as I grenaded the Dodge 60 with the ARB in it, even if only every driven in 2whl drive.
 

I JUST HAPPEN TO HAVE THE TRANNY ON CRAIG'S LIST RIGHT NOW,, for asteal,,, with the G/V unit I had over $5,500 in the trannies, including the G/V. I sold the front 60 (brand new) as well as the G/V unit. I am asking $750 for both the trannies as of right now, the 205 needing only the rear snout put back on, and believe I may still have it laying around.  

I have a friend also selling a front Chevy 60, rear 18 will ask him what he wants and if he still has them if you are seriously interested???????? 

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I want upgrade better tires

have not got hold yet of alloys still in a puzzle of size and what gain i will get after upgrading the to 175 R14/65 in performance. I had been to Madhu's enterprises (Shantinagar, Bangalore) yesterday as me too planning on tyre upgrade. 98PCD Alloys were available at 14" from SSW, but only one design (black and silver) which actually looked nice. It was quoted at 4k per alloy.

Michellin xm1+ 14" 175/60 (or 65 forgot exactly) were 4000 per piece and 185/65 were 4150 per piece. Is ssw a good brand. Have heard abt it, but is it as good as say a Lenso? Any thoughts please?

in case you want to go for a 15" alloys, pls go in for a low profile tyre. this will ensure that there is no scraping. i have driven a Palio GTX with 15" alloys for a month and generally did not find a problem. Handling and ride were good. however, when you hit a pot hole(Which is very common), at a decent speed, there is a chance that the tyre will touch the wheel arch and damage the tyre itself as well as damage teh wheel arch. i had seen several tyre cuts. i have Seen Raveendra's car with 15" alloys and low profile tyres. Looks super sexy. ensure that the overall wheel dimensions dont change with a higher profile tyres on a 15".

it will be expensive to roll back, as it involves Tyres and rims, in case you have to roll back to 14", you have to write off the investment, since getting a buyer for 15" 98 PCD's is remote for a used alloy and tyres.

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Identifying all my crankcases?

I recently acquired Dale Tholen's "Thundermug" H modified racecar and a boatload of spares. I have 8 crankcases, 7 blocks and three cranks, one of which I know is a "good" steel one - it rings like a bell. Problem - how do I tell if any of my crankcases are the good "strapped/military" versions? I have two sets of main bearing caps (not installed onto any of the crancases, however) that either have been machined flat to match the steel caps or are factory-produced flat versions - I don't know which. Three of the crankcases have the "extra" rear oil seal boss molded into the end and one of them has a very thick front crank seal area. Three of them have huge oil passage holes for the main bearings, all of which appear to be factory. All the webs look to be the same thicknesses. Some of the oil galleries have either been drilled or are factory-drilled. Are there any specific characteristics that I can look for that will identify the "good" crankcases?

I am delighted to hear that the Thunder Mug is in good hands. I will not attempt to identify the crankcases but will leave that to an expert such as Barry Seele. I will add from personal experience that you MUST get the crankcase line bored with the main caps in the places that they will actually be installed. My experience has been that Crosley crankcases are often quite out of whack which causes all manner of problems. Another thing to check is the bottom flange of the lock. A light cut on a milling machine will ensure that it is really flat. You might also check to see if the block has been milled previously as this can affect the compression especially if you are going to use special pistons which is a very good idea. Look carefully for cracks between the intake and exhaust valve seats.

If the main caps are not on, then the cases are all but junk. I have not found anybody that has a line boring machine that goes small enough for the Crosley. I have plenty of military cases, and a few heavy Fageol cases.

There is a guy near Redding CA that line bores Crosley cases on a regular basis. I will get his address and post it as soon as I can. You quoted me $2850 using my crank and crankcase. How much would using one of your crankcases add to the price? I have a camshaft that's got pretty tall and sharp lobes, it might be able to be used. What about using the Aerojet block? Is the Fageol better and bigger? What HP will the Fageol be

making if you build it for power AND longevity?

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