The 3M plastic and emblem adhesive

Anyone out there got any suggestions on how to mount the "Super" emblems on my Hotshot? The posts are tiny, Fonda at Service Motors, suggested ear ring backs but they are too small. Anyone?

3M plastic and emblem adhesive number 08061 the pro!s choice. The push on clips are available, you may have to do a little searching. I will look in my stash to see if I have that size. There is usually a couple of vendors at larger car flea markets with collections of clips of all size. I'm sure someone has them online if you can figure out what to search for.

The 3M plastic and emblem adhesive will work, I used it on a Ford emblem that I could not easily get to the back of to attach right, but it tends to be permanent and you may regret it some day. I used some devices that come with military insignias and also typical things bikers put on their leather vests. Those that I have on my vest are very old and special to me so I replace the slip-on deals with 1/16 inch wheel collars that are used on my model air planes. They will hold em real well and can also be used on yer Crosley stuff.

See this site if you would like some............

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=airplanes+%3CB%3Ewheel%3C%2FB%3E+%3CB%3Ecol%3C%2FB%3Elars

The clips can be found, however if you can't find them, I recommend against any surface adhesive. Those emblems can be hard to replace, and tough to remove using an adhesive. I have used small balls of the 2 part dry epoxy on the inner surface over the pins with great success, Then if you want to remove them later, you can crush the epoxy with a pliers and remove the emblem. I have also attached and removed crests from the nose that way.

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Leaking fuel Palio GTX ... problems still continue

The car is a 2002 Palio Sport 1.6L, So after 3 months i finally got the car back from the TASS in mangalore, and bill for 16,000rs. They said they had replaced the gear box and the clutch as well. When i saw the clutch i was so furious as it did not need changing as would be great for another 10-15,000kms. But either way i was happy to have my car back after so long. 

One week later the car stops starting. As i turn the key i hear a single click noise and the engine does not turn over. Starter problem. Also the tube that runs under the bonnet to the windshield fluid nozzle was broken so the driver side nozzle would not spray out and water. I take the car to a local mechanic and get a bill of 2400rs for starter rebuild and parts costs. WOW. Nozzle could not be repaired as the parts were not available

So now i go to fill petrol in the car and right when the fuel gets to the top it starts leaking from underneath. Leaking as in probably a good 2 or 3 liters, alot of fuel. Even now the petrol level is a little under half, i notice some leaking from under the car. 

Anyone experienced this problem before? Solutions? Also, anyone know a good mechanic in udupi/mangalore area that i can take the car to? As i dont trust the TASS anymore. Please help me out and let me know. 

Same problem of fuel leaking -- when full tank is happening with me. I have diagnosed it to be from the breather/overflow pipe and the leak area is at the joint where the 'metal pipe from petrol tank' connects to the breather pipe. There is a small rubber part/bush (with a collar) that has cracked (with time/ rubber has cracked) and that is what is causing the leak.

Now finding that is a bit difficult and hence did local arrangement of putting some other rubber as a bush to hold the pipe. The leakage has reduced by 95%.

Will take it to TASS/Service station to get it fully rectified.

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Solenoid swith and a lesson

Today I got my advy's solenoid switch of the starter motor changed. I have a learnt a lesson today. Never go by the hype created by any 'famous fiat mechanic'. I took my car to a local mechanic today next to my house. He removed the checked the starter system and found out that the solenoid switch has conked off. The same thing was told to me by Somu of concorde motors mysore road without checking the system. The mechanic removed the switch from the motor and gave it to me. I called our 'fiat mechanics' mr. venkatesh and mr. hariprasad to check if they have stoks, both of them said it is very difficult to get the same and if need be they can alter the conked off switch and make it work.

I took a chance with local motor spare shops in Bangalore (JC Road). The fifth shop i inquired had the same switch, albeit a different tiwanese brand one and not the genuine valio brand. I paid rs. 900/- for the switch and rs.350/- for installation. 

Lesson learnt - what ever the 'famed fiat mechanics' say is not very true. Many such parts are available with local vendors. 

This is really interesting. If I went through a similar problem, I had to replace the entire starter unit (valeo). I had to shell out 9k to get it running. I got this juggad done by Mr. Venkatesh for 1.8K few months ago, I was told the same thing that it can be fixed. Learnt my lesson the hard way...... beware folks with the trusted mechanics as well.

Sriram details please on the store you picked up from will be helpful. I am planning on sourcing most of these parts from either local or outside agencies and pay labor to get it fitted. I too almost fell for this jugaad by venkatesh and hariprasad. I went back to the mechanic to retrieve the complete starter set and he adviced me that the part is surely available if u look for it and asked me not to get the refurbish done. I gave it a shot. I picked up the switch from chitresh automotive spares. If u are coming on jc road from Minerva signal, Take a left at the next signal. A little further on that road, the next corner I guess is the shop.

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assume the Lotus position

Anyone who thinks modern automobiles are better than vintage Lotus in regard to serviceability might want to read this:

"GM seemed to get a lot of things right when it introduced the new Generation 7 Chevy Malibu in 2008. I got one of the higher-end models with a six-cylinder engine and a very smooth shifting six-speed automatic transmission. I was generally happy with the car until a headlamp bulb burned out.

I went to the local auto parts store and bought a replacement bulb for about $12. Then I popped the hood and found that I couldn't get to the back of the headlight assembly. The owner's manual was no help at all -- its advice was to consult the dealer for bulb replacements.

A quick Internet search revealed the awful truth: To replace the headlight bulb, you needed to remove the front bumper (among other parts). The dealer confirmed this and quoted $150 labor to replace one bulb.

The steps needed to replace the headlight bulb are as follows:

Open the hood and remove the plastic cover above the radiator (14 screws).

Jack up the car and remove the wheel (five lug nuts).

Remove the wheel-well liner (15 screws and pop-rivets).

This exposes two bolts that hold the bumper in place; remove these bolts and slide off the end of the bumper.

Now, you can reach the three bolts that hold in the headlight assembly; remove the headlight assembly and replace the bulb. Replace everything (29 screws, nuts, bolts, and pop-rivets).

If you think you might as well replace both lamps while you're at it, you'll still have to remove the other front wheel, wheel-well liner, the other side of the bumper, and the other headlight assembly (25 additional fasteners). In my Toyota Camry, I could replace both headlight bulbs in less time than it takes to read this paragraph -- without needing a single tool. Just open the hood, twist the bulb socket a quarter turn to remove it, and plug in the new bulb."

(published in the on-line edition of Design News, "Made by Monkeys" column - always a fun read)

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the sump broke

My1.9D, got hit by a stone and the engine oil sump got broken. The engine oil drained and engine stopped. Not Sure what should I do now. Should I get it repaired or Sell car.

I dont know how would this cost me for the repair. Could not sleep properly yesterday night.

I have to spend around 10k for that. I changed 4 months back in Prerena Bangalore. As soon as the sump broke, the car stopped immediately and did not attempt to use it further? If thats the case, there should be no engine damage. Can simply get that fixed and continue using the car. Why sell ?? :)

I had a damage (Dented Scratch) to my Oil Sump, service guy advised to replace else might damage the engine. I got it replaced and it costed my around 6.5 K (MultiJet SDX). And if you have not used it after the damage you could get it reapired, there should not have been any damage to the engine.

I need to check if there is engine damage if not do as Karthik suggested. The 1.9 engine is very robust, except for the FIP, if possible do rebuild the engine it serves well. Do miss mine at times even though upgraded to MJD. 

The drivability of 1.9 as well as the effortless cruising ability is a pleasure. Drive with caution on the ground clearance limitation and you won't regret.

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Hotshot carpeting?

All my Hotshots ether have or show signs of carpet being glued to the floorpan. I also have pics from Wauseon showing black carpets used. Is this right? What about the goofy cover over the trans-shifter assemblies? 

I don't know of any Crosley that came from the factory with carpet. Black rubber mats are what I have seen. The drive shaft hump was just paint.

I have some of that left over from building my sedan.

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AC suddenly malfunctions overnight

One day the AC was working fine, the next day it simply doesn't come on The switch indicator light is working fine, and the basic symptom is: absolutely no response, no click, no change in engine vibration, no increase in radiator fan speed

I intend to check in the following priority:

1. Check fuse

2. Check relay, since there's no "click" sound indicating relay function

3. If even that's OK, then check the compressor clutch (I clutch at my heart when I contemplate this!)

If that OK too, what else could it be? Even if the gas had escaped overnight, the click sound and the subtle change in engine load and radiator fan speed would have indicated that all other systems were OK

You can also check Mostly blown fuse and check for ac gas. if low pressure may not let the compressor to start, too.

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Best option for a burned engine bay - Palio 1.2 ,2002

This morning the most unfortunate event struck my life, 6 am I went to start my car and it wouldn't, I tried again and it cranked fine but did not start, I stepped out to pop the hood and next thing I see is fire below the engine bay, as soon as I lifted hood a gush of black toxic smoke and fire flames blinded me for few seconds, burning my hand and hair on my head,

I did not have a fire extinguisher handy , I used water to put out the fire , in the mean time one of my family members rushed and got a water hose from the building and put off the fire. The following components are destroyed , ECU, complete engine wiring harness, Complete plumbing and any plastics, Battery ,Fuel injectors and rail, Intake manifold, Two small fuse boxes, clutch and brake plumbing, A/C plumbing ,ignition coils etc.

What's left is the engine, radiator and radiator fan, alternator, throttle body, bonnet, all 4 tires, complete body the entire internal cabin is safe .

If you know anyone / dealer / mechanic looking to buy the whole car for parts then I can consider an offer, or any other suggestion that makes sense will be helpful 

Just plain sad and pained. 

Hope you find the proper solution, what was the cause for this mishap? Is there an option to claim insurance? Still, i'm not sure what it would cover.

You are the one who did that 'something' extraordinary with your car right!? Forgive me if I'm wrong here. Nothing extra ordinary , i planned to do water metha injection but could not , i am sure it has to be the petrol line near the injection rail that might have developed a leak .

I never modified any thing on the car , every thing was standard ,

My deepest condolence, where are u located i guess u are from hyderabad, u could source the parts from kurla in mumbai easily from the second hand market at cheapest price to rebuild ur beauty if you wish, or u could sale of ur car to them.

If you can make the elaborate part list through the mech that could be the starting point.

Around the country, there are lots of used component availability. To save cost you can start hunting from them.

Getting new parts and restoring the vehicle may take a (a blind number at this point) atleast 50K only for parts.

Major contributors Battery: 5-6K

ECU: Â 22K

Wiring harness: 4-5K

Plumbing: 4-5K

Fluid Containers: 5-6K

I may be missing something huge here. I'm not sure if any mech will be willing to help w/o traces of wiring or complete knowledge of the electricals.

Option may be 

a) Â throw away the car so that the parts may be useful for some one

b) Give it to TASS (they may ask for 1L!!!?)

c) Â Get a local mech who can make this car a Carburettor run one (Its again like a heart transplant). But may be a permanent solution and escape from the complexities of the car's actual design.

d) Procure used components and restore one by one.

After all, the family may feel that the car is unlucky - risky to use !

Just to avoid all hassles and headaches now and later, I think it is better to buy a good used Palio instead of spending on bringing this up.

Really sad incident. Have you used diesel or kerosene to clean the engine bay? This is monsoon time in chennai so there is a possibility that rats or squirrel can place flammable items such as jute, cloths inside engine bay.

I hope that you are fine.....

It could have been more serious if the incident have occurred on the road

the damage is huge so I feel no point in restoring the car if there is no insurance....

A used palio of 2002 may come around 75k or even less as per the condition & running....at least in mumbai

I'm going to kurla CST market by the end of this month to source alloys.... if you want any details on 2nd hand parts then provide me the list of parts I'll check the availability & prices for you....

Really sorry for your loss Bro....

Hope you will overcome this ASAP. 

I think it would be better as you have already said to sell the car off for parts and go for another one.

Can understand the shock and the real pain in getting a replacement . Look for a replacement than repairing the existing one. Repairing may rob your sleep and pocket. Look for a used good one and settle down at peace. 

My condolences!!! 

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Crosley Engine

Does anyone have any infomation concerning Mr. Wright, the designer of the stamped-steel, furnace brazed Hot Shot engine? The last I heard, he was living in Arizona.

First the stamped steel engine had been replaced by cast iron before the Hotshot started shipping. It was called the CoBra engine for Copper Brazed. Not sure what Mr. Wright had to do with the design, could you expand on his roll. Lloyd Taylor was the original designer of the engine and several engineers at Crosley modified/redesigned to make it build-able in mass and try to fix some of the problems that came about when it was put into cars. Here is a short story on the CoBra.

<http://28866712.linkbucks.com>

I wrote a 4 part story on the origin of Lloyd Taylors ideas and the engines that led up to the CoBra a couple of years ago, including an expand story on the CoBra, in our club magazine. Back issues are available. I would have to look back for what issues they appeared.

Thanks so much for your illuminating response. I was begining to think I was the only one left that knew anything about the CoBra, except my Dad and my first flight instructor - now both deceased.

 

I don't have much on Mr. Wright, not even a first name. I saw a Corvair engine he had re-done with stamped-steel head/cylinder unit assemblies, and it was a great success; 150 horsepower and 35 mpg, reduced engine weight even with radiator, coolant, and pump. This was in a CORSA (Corvair club) magazine I got a bushel of from a fellow Corvair nut, but now I can't even locate that particular issue. Maybe he worked in the factory?

 

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Battery Problem

When my mutt sits for 3-4 days the batteries go dead. New generator working right, new batteries. When I restored my M38A1 I had a similar problem. I found the insulation was breaking down and allowing them to short out. Anyone know if something else might be wrong? Otherwise batteries charge, and hold charge by themselves. 

I had an interesting problem with my A1 a few years back where the batterys would die after about a week of the jeep sitting in the driveway. It turns out that some mice had built a best in the starter switch housing that had some foil gum wrappers in it. The wrappers were putting a resistive load on the batterys that was killing them! I wonder if they also kept the mice warm when they were in the nest?

My solution was to buy a couple of battery quick disconnect couplings rather than install a switch. If someone finds the switch they can start the jeep but without the inter-battery link they're not going anywhere.

Here's what I used on the link: http://14fd9770.linkbucks.com

Something else I thought I'd mention to you Mutt owners. A lot of radio installations were wired directly to the batteries, therefore any shorts in the cable or mounts can drain the batteries. If you leave the radios installed, most of them have a capacitor across the input power line and if it gets leaky it can drain the batteries pretty quickly. The AM-2060s were know for this problem.

ALWAYS CONNTECT A KILL SWITCH ACROSS THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE BATTERIES! That way if your wrenching on them and the wrench hits ground you won't light up!

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