FIAT - 'car heaven'

This is great news John and so close to Bangalore! Can you please share their number, would they be interested in shipping stuff to bangalore? if not, please let us the address, its really not too far to drive down and get the spares!

My Biology professor used to say "If you want to understand a process, always try to visualize it" :)

And I really did as and when you were speaking to me about it, especially the Opera singing part hehehehe. I'm happy and relieved after your discovery, Johnny. So guys just drop that fear from your mind "Fiat spares are not available", we now have Kava if any need arises.

I just has the blissful experience of visiting car heaven. Another name for it to the common man would be 'junkyard' or 'godown' - if put nicely. You wondering what I'm trying to get at. ....

Well, I stopped by at KAVA automobiles Godown at Charkop, an Industrial junkyard zone, with all sorts of spare part shops etc, for those not from Mumbai and for those in chennai , to draw a parallel, its Harrisroad, Pudupet.

All, my fears of sourcing parts for the Palio has been abolished. This guy has got so much stuff, he does'nt know here some of the stuff is and may take days to search for the same. I got a brand new stone guard for 750 bucks for my 1.6 which im yet to fit though. He took a week to pull it out. engine, suspension , radiator, ac, internal plactic parts, fuel tanks all there. a few cosmeteci parts may not be there, and he may have to source them. Punto and linea owners , you have nothing to fear, this guy has parts for these models right from logos to engine parts stacked up, tons of it, spilling out of everywhere.....name it you'd get it. Forget all  that ball talk of spares shortage etc.... he can build an entire yard of cars with the amount of stuff he has in there. He even has parts for the Indica vista and Manza.

I was just filled with joy at the sight of this, took me back 15 years when i used to roam the streets of Pudupet in chennai searching for parts for my Beloved Zundapp, Enfield FURYs 175 (anybody here heard of that bike.....?.... a true scorcher and master piece with bad support.... hahahah... Thats another story..! ).

I was so overwhelmed that I called up Rudrah once i got back and spoke to him of the sight i just saw.....!. It aint a godown or junkyard...it was heaven. I spent 2 hours looking around, enjoying the smell of rust, oil and grease.... mmmmm... for some people like me once in a while these things are like a breath of fresh air.... :)

I thought you found something in Chennai which is just like Kava! Reading through realized you were talking about Kava :) Wish we had something like Kava around Bangalore, we are pretty hard hit for spares back here.

NO NO, I got to know of Kava thru PUG. I merely visited his Godown. I did not find it. Infact angesh of FIAT let Bala and MN know of the same and they had put up a post regarding KAVA and  purchased some parts as well. They have a shop at Opera house near kennedy bridge in Mumbai.

 

Since i stay at Oshiwara, about half hour drive from Charkop -Kandivili area, I visited their godown to pick up my stuff. Raj, of KAVA suggested I go there instead of driving all the way to Opera house which is about 30kms thru bumper crazy traffic. If u search the forum u ll find the numbers of KAVA, any ways here it is.

Raj: 022 - 23827562 , 98200 49190.

Do contact him for your requirements and let us know if ever your down.Alternately he apparently ships stuff to your destination.

The silver plus , Explorer and the Fury all shared similar engines with different capacities and the silver plus was a different kind of a bike, somewhat like a cross over between a bike and a scooter. The explorer cam with a 80cc and a 50 cc version - BSA bond for competition.

The FURY came in 2 models first the DX and then in 1990 they launched acosmetically modified version the GP. I had both the DX and the GP and what a time i had with them till 1998 when i sold them. Classic retro screamers with mag alloys, brembo disks upfront and Piaoli front forks and a short stroke engine that revved over 9000 RPM. The RX100's the shoguns, Supras would all be eating dust and i loved those bikes too.The only bike that it could not beat was of course the 'king' the -RD350.

I have an owners manual of the FURY lying around safely somewhere..!!!!

Nostalgic....!

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Adding an extra leaf in the front springs, pros and cons ?

In my pile o' extra parts I have some extra leafs. The lower , shorter ones. What are the pros and cons of adding a leaf in the front set of springs ? This car I have bought has an extremely tight front end which makes me believe it is a low mile car (no guage set in the car)so the regular set are likely OK, just wondering since I am at the point of painting and rebuilding the front end. The left front normally has one extra spring in it.

Probably would'nt hurt to add an extra leaf (especially in my case)...You can always take it out later if you don't like the ride or stance... You'd think it would take a Peterbuilt left front for me but I think mine rides level and well with stock springs. Sum'ore of that Crosley magic I spoze

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need some info for launching a complain with FIAT

Do not even think of the Consumer Court. I have just completed the 9th year in fighting my case in the Consumer Court.

If you indeed want to go to court on this issue, that is, if it is unavoidable, go for a civil case in the Munsiff court. You can apply for much more legal reliefs there. But, avoid the court if its possible.

I have a 7 months old Palio, and i noticed the back left door and front left fender were of a totally different shade than the rest of the body, i took it up with concorde for re-painting under warranty, they were quick to respond and agreed it might have been a manufacturing defect. The photographs were taken and sent to Tata motors. But they have this absurd warranty policy that says "when a car meets with an accident, all the external body parts warranty stands void". My car met with an accident on the right side and was repaired subsequently. And because of that i can't claim warranty on the left side!!! 

 

I just sent an e-mail to Rajeev Kapoor on Sunday evening. And at 9am on Monday morning i received a call from Mangesh Kodalkar, agreeing with illogical-ness of the warranty policy and said he will try to resolve the issue. Am waiting for his response. I had purchased palio stile sdx last month there are some defects in paint I DID complained this issue on website and toll free no.s but i did not received any response also emailed the issue with photos to tata motors officers but i did not recived any reply from them also where i should complain the issue does any one having fiat CEO's contact details or other fiat officials contact details. else i ahave decided to fight the issue at consumer forum. Yes bought this car under palio dhamaka the car are some black spots on the bonnet the lacker coating is damaged and there is some colour difference in doors and fender between i did mailed these issues to mangesh kodalkar and n balaji and sagar dhar of tata motors but its taking too long to handle the issues

now last day 26/7 the dealer from aurangabad 200kms from my town nasik had called me up to get the paint job corrected but i have to travel the distance at my cost and have to bear the inconvenience 2-3 days of without car of why should i do that when its there fault. I think they should bear all the costs. the car should be painted in the factory paint shop itself as none of the dealers can do the job in the correct manner. 

• Defects in Paint ::
• there is lot dust and roughness in the paint .
• The door and fender colour is not matching .
• There are 2-3 diameter spots on the bonnet since the delivery.
• Paint can be seen where it should not be
• the gear knob leather bracket is broken before delivery itself
• some rubber components are aged like the beading on the hatch door need change

• wipers also leaving lines on the glass right from the day of delivery need change

• the upholstery in the car was dirty at the time of delivery not proper cleaning was there at the time of delivery engine compartment was also so much dusty, lot of dust in the door hinges and inside the car

• there is a visible scratch on the steering wheel they denied to get it replaced before delivery

• door open light switch are aged well before delivery need to be changed ( both doors)

• Also with reference to service book fuel filter, oil filter, brake fluid, coolant need to be changed as the vehicle is 2008. The company should have given it changed before the delivery.

• Break oil level low since delivery I filled it up at first service

• the cars wheel alignment was not done the car was pulling on left I did it later on

• the additional wheel in the trunk was puncture flat tyre.
1. They even did not told me this, I had driven 200 kms from Aurangabad to nashik what if any of the wheels flat somewhere on the road.

• the cars odometer reading was 296 at the time of delivery

• left door handle lock was not working with keys from outside later the right side lock also failed to work these things can be checked before delivery itself but are well ignored in my case later I got it changed, but within a few days of purchase I faced this trauma.

Issues Regarding Papers:

1)  Sales letter and dealer invoice not given at the time of delivery they sanded it after 4 days from the delivery That too incomplete manner. Sales letter includes form no 21 & 22
The respected dealer has only provided me form no 21, and when asked about form no 22 the sales person jyoti rastoji told me that they don't know if form no. 22 is required for the 2008 OLD cars which is very ridicules answer, and the "car is old use dhundna padega " And this document they provided me on 1st july 2010 that too after a lot of heat with the showroom sales manager, many of my calls gone unanswered because I was asking the document on urgent basis. Too much sarkari attitude.

2) also the TELCO invoice (i.e. manufacturers invoice to the dealer) is also required for the registration that is also not supplied For this invoice i had to request the dealer many times after the rigorous follow up of 4 days they have faxed me this document First the sales person has denied it to provide this invoice At Nashik RTO its required.

3) original copy of insurance endorsement after 35 days of rigorous follow-up And I am moving to consumer court against this issue. As I was unable to drive vehicle for 10 or more days after spending such amount and paid penalty Rs. 1314/-to RTO because the dealer has not provided papers on time. I found FIAT responsible for the issue and pay the penalty.

4) No RSA and Extended Warranty documents ------46 days later

5) owners manual still not received -------- 46 days over. This is the longest list of problems i have faced thats why i am thinking of taking too much harder steps. They have taken almost 45+ days to reply back to me

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Searching for My Former 1999 Black Esprit

Couple of years back I sold my black/tan 1999 and am interested in tracking it down. Last known area was Ashville, NC. Easy to spot as it now has center exit exhaust, updated round tailights (not my doing), newer mesh style 2002+ wheels, limited slip, may even have the 5-point harnesses I installed, the dash face plate is carbon fibre, the intake manifold and valve covers are powdercoated red, and the shift knob is combo black leather and aluminum with Lotus logo atop.

I too, sold my V8 to a guy in NC. I appreciate the "not my doing" part, as the Esprit was always meant to wear the rectangular lights. It was silly of Lotus to Elise-itize it. Switching tail light styles was more necessary than silly. It had more to do with lack of continued availability of the old Toyota-sourced, rectangular lights. No other off-the shelf light assemblies would have exactly filled the space that was originally sculpted around the Toyota lights, so some change was inevitable. Using the Elise lights along with a fiberglass filler panel allowed Lotus to bring the taillight source in-house and avoid putting themselves at the goodwill of outside source again. It also allowed them to update the aging Esprit design...

1) with a minimal, in-house tooling investment in a model that was at the end of it's production life and could never amortize a large tooling cost reasonably, and...

2) and blending in elements of the then-current, modern corporate style/ identity.

The only incandescent lights on my Evora are the license plate and the interior dome light. It's all LED/HID.I will come to accept technology one day. You could change those out to LED too. Or maybe, to those spiral CFLs. 

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Reality check rear universal joint

I have a clunk when I change gear and release clutch that I did not have before. Seems to be from the rear of the jeep. I put jeep up on jacks and when I turn the rear tire back and forth I hear clunk at rear of back driveshaft, and I can see driveshaft jumping around when I turn wheel back and forth. Am I missing anything?

Well the u joint is either shot or unbolted... unless there is so sort of damage to the shaft itself...  Sold my A1 to a fellow while on leave might build me. Bolts front and rear are tight. Verify the 4WD shift lever is completely back. If u-bolts and joints are in good condition, no bent drive line, then check the differential. I'd disconnect the drive line, turn the wheels and listen and feel for anomaly's.

I had that sound and it was the rear a frame bushing. With engine not running, put it in gear, set park brake and push back and forth on jeep and see if that duplicates the sound.Sounds a whole lot like a U-Joint or loose bolts in the U-Joint to me. Can you shake or twist the driveshaft and see or hear anything in the U-Joint? 

 

However, I had a sound like that and I had new U-joints on the drive shaft and the axle shafts and all the bolts were tight. I finally discovered the bolts holding the differential didn't have enough treads on them and even tho they felt tight, the rear-end was actually moving up and down a little bit when I shifted. 3 new bolts with full threads fixed that. this is for the one that is having the problem with the rear drive shaft.  Did the universals been changed lately and is it possible that some of the needle bearings fell out in assembly.  If so that would do it also.   

Nope.. though this was a nos drive shaft and universal 6 years ago. Jeep doesn't go off road except hally once a year. Driveshaft is straight and bolts are tight and no clunk for 6 years. Anything I need to know to replace old one? I have nos universal spare Hard to install? TM9 is not clear how to remove snap rings and seals. Do I need to remove bearing race from yoke?

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MY GTX BACK FROM ACCIDENTAL REPAIRS

As posted earlier, my car had suffered an accident nearly 1 month ago om my way back from Coimbatore to Tirupur. After painting and denting work i had taken possession of my car as without the car i was having a problem commuting. On the 18th i had the final work done like polishing and waxing etc. Now the car is chic, even though the interior does not do justice as it is in a mess. Need to have it done by next week. The Total cost involved is as below :

PARTS :

1) CROSS RAIL : Rs. 3400.00
2) RADIATOR LOWER PANEL : Rs. 1450.00
3) RADIATOR CENTRE PANEL : Rs. 2450.00
4) HEAD LIGHT PANEL : Rs. 6250.00
5) FRONT BUMPER : Rs. 3450.00
6) HEAD LIGHT ASSEMBLY LH : Rs. 3498.00
7) FOG LIGHT BEZEL : Rs. 550.00 ( PAIR )
8) FENDER LINING LH : Rs. 1450.00
---------
TOTAL : Rs. 22498.00
=========

LABOUR :

1) TINKERING AND PAINTING INCL LEFT FENDER, BONNET, LEFT FRONT AND BACK DOOR, MINOR OTHER BODY WORK INCL ASSEMBLY AND DISASSEMBLY OF ALL DAMAGED PARTS. : Rs. 15000.00

2) AC GAS FILLING AND CONDENSER CHECKING : Rs. 2500.00

3) WAXING, POLISHING ETC : Rs. 1800.00
----------------
TOTAL : Rs. 19300.00
================

After a month when i have taken possesion of the car there is a small problem with the car. During the drive the engine suddenly revs up and you find the rpm going to 2000 and coming down and then going up again. In this instance, i have to shut the engine and then crank it again. Any idea why this problem is occuring. Would like our experts to help me out sort the problem.

Good to hear that your car is ready. I'm not sure of the rev issues that you are facing, maybe others here will be able to help you on that. Eager to meet you all during this weekend PUG-Meet. Am eagerly waiting to meet all CBE PUGGERS on 25th. It is our pleasure. Try to complete all the pending works as soon as possible. Keep in touch. Happy driving.

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Correct Output of Voltage at Battery Terminal

Is your car a Diesel or Petrol as in Diesel a higher crank is required.

  

I replaced my AMRON Battery with AMRON only, and after installation of new battery the AMRON person chked with voltmeter the output was 13.3, so is it  OK or else because he told me very sheepishly the voltage should be 14.2 ater the first crank, so still i m suspiciuos abt the actuals. 

Check the alternator, if the charging does not happen while running, even the most toughest of batteries will conk off.

You should have the battery checked on a Voltmeter/hand held analyzer available with authorised battery dealers. The Amaron guy in this case should have it. If the battery cells are showing up week, which I think is the case here (even one cell with adversely affect the cranking ability), you should replace the battery. Another way of doing it is to try putting another battery and then see if the motor cranks up effortlessly. At most you could have the electricals checked with a Fiat dealer but I dont think that is a problem.

I need suugestion to remove my confusion regarding my Palio 1.2 Battery. My Battery (AMRON 44 DIN) is 35 Monts Old and was doing good untill day before yesterday morning. All of sudden I could not start my car, but all signals on techometer i.e. Battey Signal, Oil Signal, injector signals are visible, but i could not able to start my car not even a single cranck. I called up the Amron Guy he told me to check with your mechanic may be car is having some loose connection or taking some charge to drain the battery. so i went uptold me to 

car electrician he told me not to worry your battery is dead so change the battery, he just took on battery for full charge on my request and car start yesterday i run around 10 Kms after Charging ut again today morning it refuse to start, then again i speak to AMRON guy he told me if battery has a problem your car would not start after running of few kilometers, so the problem with car electricals. So i m confused between these two experts, one is telling me your car electricals are perfect and the culprit is battery and battery guys is telling me car electricals is the problem. Mine is 1.2 Petrol

You should have the battery checked on a Voltmeter/hand held analyzer available with authorised battery dealers. The Amaron guy in this case should have it. If the battery cells are showing up week, which I think is the case here (even one cell with adversely affect the cranking ability), you should replace the battery. Another way of doing it is to try putting another battery and then see if the motor cranks up effortlessly. At most you could have the electricals checked with a Fiat dealer but I dont think that is a problem.

Pl start the engine & check charging Voltage  it should be 14.1 to 14.4DC &On all eletricals on, AC, Headlights AC Blower it shouldbe not lower than 13.8 V DC at battery terminals If it is showing low the alternator is faulty , If is showing correct then The battery is at problem Suneel Gore

If battery is at fault it is easy job , Just change it if it is More than 3/ 3.5 yrs Old as it is failing to re-charge But if lternator is problemit is bit complex issue as repairs are costly To replace original alternator would be around 10000/=  I would suggest Chek for alternator make , It would be mostly Bosch Alternator Check for MICO/BOSCH Service dealer in your area , He would chek it free of cost If Rotor, Commutator & Field coil are ok (Mostly it would be Ok) The Rectifier plate is generally the problem , It is available in market, The original sealed one , & Replacement local product The original is always worth 

Apology for my ignorance, are these parts of the alternator assembly (Rotor,Commutator,Field coil & Rectifier plate)or other than alternator. so can i procure separately or i have to procure or purchase the alternator i.e. around 10K as Suneel suggested, and one more confusion is this 10K is total cost for all parts ??

I think its available seperately. In my case, the rectifier was bust, so had to get the rectifier plate. Total cost came upto 5k or so.

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Two Questions Posed During 2010 Crosley Auto Club National Meet

It is my understanding from reading the posts during and after the 2010 Crosley Automobile Club National Meet that everyone had a great time.Unfortunately I was unable to see Dave Anspach again, but Dave, I am looking forward to seeing you in Hershey, Pennsylvania in October.

Also, I wanted to meet two gentlemen, the two B.S.ers, who I have spoken with on several occasions, Messers Seel and Smedley. 

Barry Smedley, thanks for your genuine offer of hospitality on the floor or in the extra bed in your room. Barry Seel, I am meeting the gentleman in Ligonier, PA at 10:00AM on Tuesday, 20 July to see and drive my recent acquisition for the first time. To both of you, words cannot adequately describe my gratitude! 

Now that I know the featured Crosley vehicles at the 2011 National Meet will be the "VC Class," rather than ship the car to California in July or August 2010, I am looking for QUALITY INDOOR STORAGE somewhere in Ohio so I am able to display and drive my "VC" in July 2011. Following are the two questions I posed during the 2010 CAC, which no one answered on the forum, as most active CAC members were at Wauseon:

1. On the 1952 Crosley Pickups, was the spinner inside the front grill OEM?

2. Did Crosley ever supply either an aftermarket or OEM hitch setup for a 1952 Crosley Pickup? Has anyone designed a hitch set-up, and if so, please contact me OFF FORUM at my email address or telephone number.

I have been in my hometown of Pittsburgh, PA arriving Wednesday, 14 July. I am here for the annual Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix, which is the only venue in the USA with all out open street racing for vintage race cars. This year the qualifying is Saturday, 24 July, with the finals run on Sunday, 25 July.

I am displaying my Juan Peron Sponsored 1954 Pan Americana Road Race Ford, which was entered in the final Pan Americana Road Race (AKA Mexican Road Race) in 1954. This world famous event was held from 1950-1954. It was canceled after the 1954 race due to several driver deaths and many, many spectator deaths, just as the famous Italian Targo Florio was canceled for the same reasons.

I would enjoy meeting Crosley friends from the greater Pittsburgh area, i.e. Glenshaw, on Monday, 19 July 2010 from 3-9 at the corner of Walnut Street. & Aiken Avenue in the Shadyside area of Pittsburgh, PA. The Juan Peron sponsored 1954 Pan American Road Race car will the featured vehicle!

The little "Beanie & Cecil" prop was dealer installed to upgrade the trucks along with the Crosley factory addition of the rollup winders. The spinner also was used to make the 1951 vehicles look like the 1952 ones when the dealer switched the serial number plates making the remainder of the cars all new again! The best hitch I have seen is on the famous "Crosley-Davidson" built by another talented Barry, Barry Dennis. http://www.angelfire.com/mi/MIRG/crosley.html

I hope this is right.......i have found out that anything goes pretty much on a Crosley making them even more of a people car and that makes us love them all the more.
 

The information I have is all commercial vehicles (pickup, and sedan delivery) had no prop, or fender ornaments. roll up windows were standard on pickup trucks. Only the 1951 standard coupe, and station wagon had slider windows. No hitch was available.

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Best Racing Clutch?

Got my Lotus 41 out of mothballs and drove it for the first time in >forty-three years at the GGLC trackday this past Tuesday. The clutch >was misbehaving making horrible chattering noises and only partially >disengaging. 

After that length of storage you may just have surface rust on the splines of the gearbox input shaft. The friction plate needs to be able to move smoothly along this to disengage cleanly. Similarly if it has a sprung centre then this may have siezed, the chattering could be loose centre springs.

The car was stored in a very low humidity environment, there wasn't any rust on the brake rotors so I doubt that is an issue. Other members of my family have complained about how it did not actuate very well and now I got to experience it firsthand. It's going to be replaced with a better solution. Pretty sure it did not need the dual plates with amount of torque this engine puts out. Here's what the plates look like. The clutch unit is an older now obsolete style. http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=403&m=d-Keith 

I'm also looking for a Standard rear axle for a Series 2 Seven. What is the difference between the wagon and sedan axles? Did I not read that Sevens built in some time frame used Austin/Nash Metropolitan rear axles? If so, were these modified to the 3.75" PCD?

 

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Testing the gas guage sending unit ?

Well I figured out how to test it and it works but some cleaning revealed the brass float is badly cracked. Throw it away and buy a new unit or some sort of float substitute ?

Service motors has new ones. Cork will work well for many a year. I have used them in antique outboard motor carbs. I thin out some Permitex #3 sealer with a little acetone and paint a replica so they don't absorb fuel, let them dry and install em. But, it's less hassle to let Butch or them Damn Yankees send you one that ends all the grief and it's fool proof. Ceptin for me. Greif sometimes finds me hiding in a dark cellar......

instead of throwing it away if the electrical checks out, why not make sure the float is empty, then solder the crack closed? I would heat the float in a low heat oven to drive out excess air before I used a soldering iron (nota flame) to do the soldering. good luck.

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Lambda Sensor - Definition and functioning

The statement:

Lambda sensor (also called as oxygen sensor) helps in fuel+air mixture and not the 'oxygen content in the exhaust gasses' ! :) - Is incorrect.

 

The correct statement should be: 

Lambda sensor (also called as oxygen sensor) helps in fuel+air mixture by measuring the 'oxygen content in the exhaust gasses' ! :)

 

Here is the an explanation for the above confusion - Automotive oxygen sensors, colloquially known as O2 sensors, make modern electronic fuel injection and emission control possible. They help determine, in real time, if the air fuel ratio of a combustion engine is rich or lean. Since oxygen sensors are located in the exhaust stream, they do not directly measure the air or the fuel entering the engine. But when information from oxygen sensors is coupled with information from other sources, it can be used to indirectly determine the air-to-fuel ratio.

Source - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor

 

Thus, the definition of a Lambda sensor - Sensor fitted to exhaust systems to measure the oxygen content of exhaust gases. Is correct.

Below is the portion of one of the very earlier posts by our won Dr.Sunil Pullockaran addressing the FE issues on Palios. Please read through and im sure this will be the best read allowing you to understand what dictates FE and how you ensure you get reasonable figures out of your car. by the way, Lambda sensor (also called as oxygen sensor) helps in fuel+air mixture and not the 'oxygen content in the exhaust gasses' ! :)

Sincere apologies on a slight wiring error. In my previous post I had mentioned the heater of the Oxygen sensor to be colourd white but actually the correct wiring is Lead 1 and 2 coloured black(+) and grey(-) are the sensor leads and the 3 and 4th leads coloured white are the heater leads for the oxygen sensor. One more precaution is never to use the resistance check on the sensor and always use the DC voltage reading check. Last night I wrote the post late at night nad hence the error so please forgive me. I went and checked the same today morning and my sensor occasionally shows a reading of 1.2 volt which is a little above normal and also reset the ECU. Bye and wear your seatbelts.

In the daily digest I read a few members claiming that they managed a fuel effeciency of just 6 to 9 km perlitre which is near impossible if you go through a few tips I am about to give which has been given before in past posts but for the benefit of new members I will go through the same once again. Remember I am an orthodontist by profession so you can just ignore suggestions coming from someone in the medical field but these tips work wonders on my GTX which gives 9.8km/litre in the city and about 12.4 to 13 on the highway and I never switch off the AC.

1) The next time you go to the service centre make sure your suspension components are in top condition and by that I mean all rubber bushings of the front and especially the rear suspension. Replace any bush even slightly out of conformity which can be assessed by any trained mechanic working at the authorized service centre.

2)Using the tape and or rope method which I have described in detail in previous posts make sure the toe-in of your front tyres are +0.5 mm and yes I did mention in millimeters and not degrees. I am absolutely convinced the computerised wheel alignment offered in our service centres are just not perfect enough in the hands of our less than well trained wheel alignment mechanics.

3)Get a digital multimeter of atleast Rs 300 or more and do not ever use the analogue meters as they will ruin the component I am asking you to check which costs about Rs2000. Bring your car to optimum running temperature and switch off the engine and disconnect the battery cables I repeat again disconnect the battery cables.This battery disconnection is to prevent the possible frying of your ECU similar to the frying of your motherboard and or CPU and memory modules when you attempt to remove a PCI card without switching of the computer power completely. I have fried my computer on two occations in my early days at assembling computers. Remove the four pin connector of the Oxygen sensor/Lambda sensor which resembles a spark plug sitting at the exit of the exhaust gases from the engine to the exhaust manifold. Of the four leads two will be of the same colour in my cars case two are grey which are for the quick heating of the sensor using a heater element. The other two in my GTX the important ones are coloured black and white and they are huddled together at the other corner of the four pin connector which are the pins that output 0.4 to 0.8 volt at idling. Using your multimeter leads practise a few times to touch the black and white leads of the sensor without shorting them as shorting them when they are out putting voltage will ruin their sensitivity. Remember all this with your battery disconnected and the engine off need I say. Once you get the hang of it reconnect your battery terminals which by now would have drained all learned paremeters in other words you would have reset your ECU.

Next start your car with the disconnected Oxygen sensor. Check that your car is at optimum running temperature and then using your digital multimeter not analogue meter check the voltage output from the black

and white leads. They should read 0.6 -to 0.8 volts and should keep varying at a furious rate between these extremes and if they vary by a wider margin like 0.4 to 0.9 volts all the better the important thing being this should be varying at a furious pace like two to three different readings a second and they should read atleast 0.8 volts occassionaly when your friend/wife blips the throttle. Through all this make sure your hands are steady as shorting the leads will ruin your oxygen sensor but not the ECU as the sensor you have already disconnected. Like spark plugs and oil dampers the Lamda sensor weaken over time and need replacement every 30000km or more but much sooner if there are contaminants in the fuel like silicon or radiator fluid from a failed head gasket. I am hands on type of guy so for those who are vary of ruining your sensor go to the authorized service centre and hook up the FIAT computer and check your Oxygen sensor. More often than not all guys who have poor fuel effeciency have a defective/weak Oxygen sensor.

I am very happy with the 9.8km/litre I get in my GTX in cochin with AC in the city and if you guys do not get 11 in the NV then go through these three points and one of them will be the culprit. Bye and do wear your seatbelts. Before I forget Sania has made our nation proud hats of to her and especially her parents for allowing her to train even though from a conservative Muslim family in Hyderabad. Do you guys know about the story about the NIZAM of Hyderabad wanting to accede to Pakistan during the time of partition. If not for Krishna Menon Hyderbad in Andhra would have been part of Pakistan and so would Sania Mirza.

I think that is precisely what Chandan has actually tried to convey in his post, but maybe not in so many words. But admittedly the meaning came out loud and clear. Terming it as incorrect might be a bit too harsh, dont you think? No harshness, intended towards anybody. Smile.

 

What made you think that my email was addressed to Chandan. It was not. Again, sorry for any ruffled feathers.   Feathers? I dont see any feathers in this group. Body hair and animal fur maybe. But definitely not feathers. No birds here.

If we were chickens, we would be going around in anything else but a Fiat, wouldn't we?

 I know for a fact that Arindam loves birds, i.e, the edible ones. So I  guess that is where it's coming from. Though I would rather that his preferred expression would be "Tipping the Scales" Arindam- please correct me if I am wrong :)

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need help with a swapped engine

hello, everyone i really need help with my 1979 Quadra Van I swap the engine from a 1985 cube van 350 to the 1979 it fit but the it wont turn and also cracked the transmission housing so i am getting another rebuilt tranny to replace it. the rebuil tranny is from a 1977 4x4 truck i dont know if that would fit .does anyone has any idea how to do this change and the engine that i swap the oil filter is hitting the chassis, do i have to change the fly wheel or the converter.

Does the newer motor have the same oil filter adapter that was on the old motor? The one our 460 pathfinder Quadravan uses puts the oil filter out at a 45 degree angle.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10384420@N03/3666058787/sizes/l/in/set-72157604698701780/

As for the flexplate/flywheel.. I can't answer that. We just rebuilt the motor and trans that came with our rig when we got it..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10384420@N03/3666058787/sizes/l/in/set-72157604698701780/

wow that an beautiful engine looks my newer engine but i am having difficulty with oil filer but it looks just like yours i cant get get the old adapter from the ols engine off it seen to be seal really well i dont know if there is much difference from the chassis

BTW,,, I use those oil filter adapters on my small block conversions, there are two versions of those, one more also, with fittings to an oil cooler in front of the radiator. According to Ford??? the gasket/oring that seals to the block is not available, however with some work, I was able to locate the correct O ring to replace it when you take it off. It is usually margin able for a re seal again. These are the people I found, that already knew about it and had the correct o ring.

vic/ca

http://sealing.localplacement.com/

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Electric Car Sets New Record for Pikes Peak Hill Climb

Electric Car Sets New Record for Pikes Peak Hill Climb - An electric vehicle driving on Yokohama tires and powered by a new AC Propulsion motor broke the record for electric vehicles in the 2010 Pikes Peak International Hill Climb in Colorado Springs, Colorado over the July 1st weekend.

Toyota's Prius Ranked Top-Selling Car in Japan - Holding the position for the 14th time in row, Toyota's Prius has been ranked the Japan's top-selling car for the month of June. The auto major sold 31,876 of the
gas-electric cars, last month. This figure has surpassed the sale of Honda's fuel-efficient Fit.

This Week's Electric and Hybrid Top Stories and Video of the EV's Pikes Peak Hill Climb - Click Here
<http://electricandhybridcars.com/index.php/pages/electriccarnews.html>

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different for petrol and diesel engines

Selenia oils are different for petrol and diesel engines !!!! So please check what has been put into your car, before you damage the engine. I got the info from Concorde motors cochin that they are using different oils for Petrol and Diesel engines. But, I asked the service manager at Kulathunkal and to my shock he is saying that they are using the same oil for both engines! Tomorrow I am going to Kulathunkal to see what can be done, I'll demand that I need a flush and the correct engine oil to be filled.

 

I went to Kulathunkal Motors today morning. First thing was I asked the service adviser to show me the can of engine oil they have used in my car. It turned out that they have one and ONLY ONE Selenia engine oil type coming - that is the WR 5W-40. As per Selenia, this is the recommended oil for diesel engines and not petrol engines. I meet the works manager and some other service engineers and they are tried to convince me that the oil is indeed good for petrol engines too. I told them that I have confirmed with Selenia that this is only for diesel engines. They finally agree and accept the mistake.

The works manager tried to order "Selenia K" oil for petrol engine but it is not found in their system. However, he told me that it is indeed mentioned in the circular they received from Fiat. So by Monday I will get it in writing that they will replace the oil in my car, and by next week, they agree to change the oil to the correct one. I am thinking whether I should ever go back to Kulathunkal or not.

The Petronas Selenia Oil that is recommended for Petrol Cars is Selenia K 5W-40 and the brief details behind the oil can says Synthetic Lubricant ideal for the most modern Petrol Engines. Owing to its unique formula, it warrants high resistance to ixidation, the utmost protection in "Stop & Go" driving & outstanding performance whatever the weather.

SAE 5W-40
ACEA A3/B3
API SM
MB 229.3
VW 502.00/505.00
FIAT 9.55535-M2 C.T.R No.F214.105

1 litre can (color is Red sticker in front on K 5W-40) costs Rs.610/- So the service advisor who told K 5W-40 was right.

I have used this oil during my long trip and it is good. But now I have moved over back to normal mineral oil as I have seen this synthetic oils condition after 15000 km interval & it was jet black & mucky and I decided to stay with Mineral Oil & keep the oil change interval at every 7000 km.

This is available in Coimbatore. Do let me know if you want this I can procure it for you and send it across to you.

Please remove the existing oil ASAP so that it should not damage your engine. I pity the so many other car owners who dont know what cocktail is going into their engine. It is only some one who takes interest & knows what is churning inside the engine takes care of the car. Good thing you spotted this in time. The viscosity of this Synthetic oil looks too thin for me. For our kind of temperature & dusty atmosphere and high speed engines this thin layer of oil circulating is something i wonder is it correct.Yes Selenia K 5W-40 is the recommended oil for Fiat petrol engines as you mentioned.So many petrol Punto and Palio owners are unknowingly using WR5W-40 in their cars since these guys fill that oil without looking at whether it is a petrol engine or diesel engine. I guess all Punto 1.2 or 1.4 owners will be affected like this, if they get their cars serviced in Kulathunkal.

I confirmed with Concorde in Cochin that they are using two different Selenia oils for Petrol and Diesel engines. Hope they are using the recommended ones.

Sorry I could not meet you last time when you were in Tvm, got tied up with work, but I was aware of your visit as I got an SMS from Gemi.

As of now, Kulathunkal agreed to fill the right Selenia oil in my car by next week, let us see how things turn out. I shall contact you if I require it from Coimbatore.

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Mutt Under Water

I will look through my stuff and try to find the DVD. It is a 30 minute long professionally done DVD of 23rd Military Police Co. operations in Vietnam 1967-72, produced by a veteran of the 23rd MP company. It is a compilation of 8mm movies, and many scans of 35mm photos, set to period music and with a voice over narration. There are several movies of M151 gun jeeps on convoy, loading and unloading from an LST or LCT, besides the water crossing at the defile. Cadillac-Gage V-100 Commando armored scout vehicles are also featured. I will ask him if I can post some of it on u-tube or maybe I can just pull out the water crossing section and post it here somehow. We just gave a copy to the curator of the Museum at the US Army Military Police School at Ft Leonard Wood MO to place in their collection. Let me try to find my copy in my own archives.

I saw the real thing in 1968. Near the south end of ChuLai base a small river, large creek, that was swollen by monsoon rains emptys out into the DungQuat Bay of the South China Sea. While patroling along the beach in one of our M-151ai's we came upon the creek as we drove south and found some GIs on the opposite bank who were deciding whether to attempt a ford of the creek/river. We told them no but they decided to try it any way and drove straight into water that was about 8 feet deep and submerged the whole jeep. They popped out of the jeep, swam to the beach eventually after being washed out. The wind up of the whole thing was extracting the M-151ai with a deuce and a half and a winch by a very pissed off motor pool SGT. It was something to see at the time and a lesson learned for all concerned.
 

Later that year we had to ford a small river in a field expedient defile around a blown out bridge after a convoy ambush on QL1 south of TamKy City. Our CO, CPT Sunderland, was at the scene with us and took some good 8mm movies of M151a1's in action. I have a copy of that on a DVD. The drivers pulled out the hand throttles, sat up on the back of the seats and drove those gun jeeps right across with a big splash and a lot of muddy water being thrown around. Once again I have to say that our mission weary, but always mission ready, M151s did whatever we asked of them, never let us down and brought all but 10 of us 23rd MPs home every day. They just could not cope with those command detonated, buried 105mm rounds now known as IEDs.

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Wipers

I want to replace my Palio Stile wipers?

Are the ones available with TASS the best or are there any other brands that available in after-market. I changed over to Bosch wipers. Paid 350 Rs and am pretty happy with them. The performance is better than OE. I guess you would get them in any good auto parts dealer.
 

U can replace wiper arm with BOSCH. That will cost approx. Kamesh go for bosch, superb. mines in 2nd season and superb efficiencey. I  think all boscch aftermarket and OEm stuff is superb. the dealer is in lodhi road the market behind sai baba mandir Ganpati Automotive Shop No.-78, Meharchand Market Lodhi Road, New Delhi
 

Do these BOSCH wipers come in standard size and fittment or will I have to search for Stile specific?

 

Wiper blades are specific to car models, they vary in size. The fitment system also will be different from car to car.

As Ravveendra mentioned, just ask for Palio compatible Bosch wipers.I don't know the part number though

Thanks for all the details Shubhro, will check with him on availability for my Stile. What do you think will he have a pair in stock?

Do the wiper blades for Retro and Stile version share the same part number??

As Ravveendra mentioned, just ask for Palio compatible Bosch wipers.I don't know the part number though
 

You can check this thread from T-BHP for Bosch Wiper details. Most of the cars are listed.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifications-accessories/14555-list-available-bosch-wiper-blades-have-safe-monsoon-drive.html

The wipers for retro and new palio stile are different, though the difference is very small but it will not work the best way it is supposed to. It will be a Jugaad sort of thing to do. I got the wipers of my minty changed @ 2 months back, they are of bosch, original pack and cost me @ Rs. 329 with bill etc. I am waiting for the rear wiper from the dealer. yes, as many have said bosch are much more better than the OEM syndicate make wipers. 

A new thing I tried in rains this year was adding only 2 drops of dish washer to the windshield washer water. I used prill / pril and it worked magic for me, specially on the rear windshield, where it gathers more dust and mud particals. caution - add only a drop or 2 of the dish washer liquid in the full windshield wash container as these are very concentrated chemical agents and may harm the rubber / plastic parts on the windshield / rubber of wipers, if used freely. Also do not use these on the windshield to clean it directly.any droplets not cleared from the bumper may harm the paint of your loved palio. Adding these dish washers will not make a big foam on the windshield but will clean it effectively. In non-rainy days, I use the most mild / soft / baby shampoo 4-5 drops per full container and that also works good.
 

I will be at BOSCH dealer in an hours time from now and will make sure that I get wipers for Stile version and not for Retro version, thanks for the clarification.

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Difficulty in removing the key from the driver's side door

When the beast is in idle position, it puts up a shame on the Palio but one push on the throttle pedal and you just forget everything...Zip Zap Zooooooom :)

fhir kya kava kava..only Waka Waka!! :)) LOL

Try to get a duplicate key. You can get it done by any person who is doing duplicating with proper equipment.

I face the same problem, but with the lock on the co-driver's side.

And it started recently? And does it seem to be a problem with the coastal guys (like us Mumbai folks?). Because in Mumbai there's very high level of corrosion.

Regarding the noises from the dash, it could be because of loosening. Perhaps, the dash being opened for some work earlier?

Thank God, by car is driving wonderfully, without any issues. Empty roads tempt me to speed on, but I'm learning to control the urge ;)

Try a syringe of vinegar.Not the whole syringeful just a few drops, wait for an hour and use the syringe to apply a 50:50 mix of any oil with

kerosene.Again a couple of drops.

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Wauseon bound

I am all packed and going to leave tomorrow early morning. Should be in Wauseon around 3 pm. See ya all there! Have a safe trip Seel family. Im fixin to start after work Wed. and get thar Thursday. Probably catch cold up yonder with all the cold temps. Its been 100+ here. I saw a bird pull a worm out of the ground today and it was using Potholders! 

I was in Wauseon this morning. Was 92 then (went to 94) and suppose to be 96 tomorrow so you will not have to wear to many sweaters Cut. Dropping into the mid to high 80s by the weekend according to the weather man. Chance of rain Thursday night and Friday.

Already a fair number of members there in the morning. We will be moving onto the grounds tomorrow morning sometime.

Finished loading-packing-hope to be on the road tuesday if everything goes well and I can get mom out of bed. Chuck-k

The Miller's are loading up. Be in Wauseon Thursday afternoon. Bringing Chuck K. a bunch of Tillotsons.Good one Cut! hasn't been much dirfferant here!

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Engine oil confusion - Selenia 5W40 for diesel engine

I got my car serviced today. Since I requested Selenia semi synthetic oil this time around, they have used that.

In the bill, the item is described as Fiat Diesel Engine Synthetic Oil - 5W40 I was surprised to see this since the car is a 1.2 Petrol. (Palio 1.2 NV) Could this be a problem? Could there be two different versions of 5W40 for Petrol and Diesel?

Sunil
Palio 1.2 ELX - 54000 Kms
Punto MJD - 10000 Kms

I checked Selenia web site and found that they recommend Selenia 20K oil for Palio 1.2 8V - that is SAE 10W-40, ACEA A3, API SL/CF. This, seems to be usable for both petrol and diesel.

I have filled WR 5W40 instead. (SAE 5W-40, ACEA B3/B4, API CF)

Since it doesn't show API S rating, I guess it is not really suitable for Petrol engines... or is it?

Selenia' recommended oil for 1.3 MJD engines is WR 5W-30 (SAE 5W-30, ACEA C2) but here all TASS centers seem to use WR 5W-40 for bith petrol and diesel engines! As you can see above, it is API CF and so not really suitable for Petrol engines.

Do I need to flush the engine oil and fill the correct one or will it be ok to run the 1.2 8V motor with a 5W-40, ACEA B3/B4, API CF engine oil?

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Need Opinian

There is one Red 1.6 Advy on sale at Panvel, Navi Mumbai. It has run arnd 63k kms. If interested, contact Sanjeev Harikant. It his neighbours car.

Pls don't be offended but if you wanna sell your Palio D 1.9 am waiting to grab....her.

Have one which has clocked 83K( used car) and enjoy driving, actually feel its an injustice for a diesel (again no offence meant)

Actually it must be in pristine condition, congrats.

Generally clock around 2 to 2.5 k per month, could you reply with your FE and top speed.

If you are at Delhi you can get all parts at Kashmiri Gate from Agarwal Brothers, there is a guy named Nikhil and he is pretty friendly tell him that you are PUG member and need genuine parts, # is 9891819294.

I am indeed n delhi right now. Thanks Dipin

I indeed know Vijay in concorde motors.

hahahaha no chance of selling 1.9D :). before buying 1.6 Advy siddhesh called me up and asked me if i am interested in selling my 1.9D. He was lucky to find another well maintained FIAT.

Yes. its injustice with diesel, but cant help it. If i part away from 1.9 it will be injustice to me, cant live with out her. My car is in excellent condition, except few things. Like Color on left side of the car had started showing its age. In last 6 months when I was travelling abroad, some how stray dogs started liking my Palio and they had left few scratches on bonnet and chewed antenna. Other than that just perfect.

In few months might get the touch up done, and thinking of changing it's shoes as well. My car is still running on dec 2003 Shoes (i know its high time to change her shoes).[?]

FE: In city it manages to return min 12 KM/L (with AC). and high way if driven between band of 80-90KM it returns 17-18Km (with AC) for sure. Mostly I count avg tankfull to tankfull. Overall I get figures of 15-17(city+highway (with AC)). I am happy with these figures. Don't expect anything above 18KM/L from 1910cc :D.
 

About top speed I have hardly abused her, as 99% of the time I travel with Mom and dad so they consistently keep an eye on speedo. When alone I have touched speedo of 145-147 on express way. That's it.

Any more questions? :)

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Please Mr. Custer. . .I Sure Wanna Go!

Day early but with getting ready for the Nationals, I figured I better do it when I thought about it.

Enjoy http://crosleyautoclub.com/

We're honored, Mr Truk is tickled and happy is a steamed clam in butter.

We will miss seeing y'all at the 'Great Crosley Fair' in Wauseon. Say hello to everyone and we send hugs to all! God bless and may everyone have a safe passage to and fro. 

Hello young Crosley lovers wherever you are,

I hope your troubles are few,
All my good wishes go with you tonight,
I have a Crosley of my own.

Please Mr. Custer,
I sure wanna go (whoa o-o whoa),
Please Mr. Custer,
I sure wanna go (to the 2010 Wauseon CAC National Meet)!

Not only do you have all of your fuel expenses paid from Florida upon your arrival in Wauseon, Ohio (is there another?), you have the opportunity to shake the hand of the man who has the California personalized license plates CROFTON and CROSLEY.

Big deal about the CROFTON and CROSLEY California personalized license plates. . .that and a dime will get you a cup of coffee!

Please think creatively and out of the box on this one.

I have been unable to find a conventional enclosed auto transport company, i.e., D & K, Fedex Passport, Horseless Carriage, Reliable Carriers, to perform on time for 2010 Wauseon.

Eight Is Enough. . .but not when it pertains to the number of days until Wauseon 2010!

Help! I need somebody's help!
Help me if you can I'm feeling down,
And I do appreciate you being around,
Help me get my Crosley on the ground (in Wauseon, Ohio)
Won't you please, ease, ease, help me now.

Please contact me directly at: howardgsinger@sbcglobal.net or on my mobile. The number appears under my signature.

If I am successful, I plan to sing one of the great all time standards at the Saturday Night Banquet. . ."Just In Time"

All the very best,
 

You have my greatest sympathy. I sincerely wish there were something I could do to help.

I too have been in a similar situation. Not the 3000 miles you are dealing with, but near 1500. Were it not for a gracious dealer who combined my delivery with some of his other Crosley dealings, I'd been caught with my britches down. I will always in the future consider how I can get a car that won't fit the realm of normal transport.

There was a Crosley Woody Wagon in California about 6 or so years ago that had my heart flipping. Price was not too bad. thank God I didn't jump on it.

I know this is not very comforting to you, and I'm truly sorry for you and your position, but hopefully it will help one of us nonconventional collectors avoid heart break and turn the sweet happiness of a new favorite purchase into a bitter end.
 

One of the better sides to this story. If you have a bit more time, the trip to Fl would be a nice pretty ride and, if you have never been to Florida, a fun experience.

All the best of luck

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